“HAAM SAP” 

haam4 sap1” salty: pornographic: dirty

Growing up in the States in the early 2010s as a Chinese-American teenage boy was a harrowing time for Chet Lo’s self-image. At the time, Western media inundated our culture with a narrow, white, heteronormative ideal of beauty and sexuality, making those who didn’t fit into this minuscule box to feel othered. Simultaneously, Lo was indoctrinated to believe sexual desires were ‘dirty’, ‘impure’ and a ‘taboo’, leading him to feel a sense of shame in his natural sexual urges. These factors left Lo feeling desexualised, struggling to feel at home in himself. While representation in the media has since dramatically improved, its impact left Lo with a painful residue. 

This season, Chet Lo takes an active stand in reclaiming the power lost during his youth, healing the childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined our differences instead of celebrating them. By leaning head first into what repressed him, he writes a new story of what is beautiful- this time, including everyone. 

The SS24 collection features seductive prints, a modern ode to the sensual splendour of ancient Chinese erotic art and Shunga- subjects which Lo grew up believing were taboo. In the Japanese art form of Shunga, which reached its crescendo in the Edo period, sexual pleasure was celebrated and normalised, and it wasn’t uncommon to see same-sex partners basking in acts of love. Lo incorporates these prints on knit lace trouser and satin devore tops - faint tableaus, appearing as beautiful monograms in which the closer you look, couples of various sexualities are engaged in moments of intimacy.

The graphic PDA of the prints juxtapose the delicate nature of the knit lace mini-dresses and second-skin skirts, while their intensity amplifies on white leather jackets. As passions sizzle and the globe reaches sweltering temperatures, the viscose yarns for the brand’s spiky pieces adjust to become lighter and bouncier. This season, spikes take on various levels of intensity; on babydoll tees, they are small for those who flirt with incorporating spikes into their wardrobe and on maxi skirts, they are gargantuan for those who revel in their boldness. 

The collection also sees references to Shibari - a modern Japanese form of rope bondage, used for erotic fantasy play, meditation and trust binding. Intricate ropes lay on top of double-layered knit mini dresses and reverse neckties feature throughout the collection, symbolising the internal restriction and tension Lo once felt growing up. Chinese knots, an omen of good luck in Chinese culture are also referenced, with anchor detached thong detailing on trousers and appearing on the back of sleeveless spiky tops. 

As a continuation from last season, Charles & Keith and Chet Lo collaborate again for SS24, this time to create loafers with out-of-this-world spikes and sultry strappy heels. He also continues his partnership with pioneers and denim innovators, ISKO™, this season using the brand’s new innovative material, Ctrl+Z, which is made entirely from recycled fibres (no virgin cotton or polyester). Ctrl+Z is used for denim styles throughout the collection and feature signature Chet Lo erotic laser prints.

Clothing has the power to liberate us and allow us to create the version of ourselves that we see in our mind’s eye. Whether through tailored trousers with hip slits or halterneck knit dresses with a monogrammed scissoring print, Chet Lo wants to make everyone feel their most aligned, empowered and sexy self.